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Analytical markers for silk degradation: comparing historic silk and silk artificially aged in different environments
Division of Glycoscience, School of Biotechnology, AlbaNova University Centre, KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden / Department of Fibre and Polymer Technology, School of Chemical Science and Engineering, KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden.ORCID iD: 0000-0003-3572-7798
Department of CollectionsThe Royal Armoury, Skokloster Castle, Hallwyl Museum, Stockholm, Sweden.
School of Conservation, Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts Schools of Architecture, Design and Conservation, Copenhagen, Denmark.
University of Skövde. Department of Fibre and Polymer Technology, School of Chemical Science and Engineering, KTH Royal Institute of Technology, Stockholm, Sweden.ORCID iD: 0000-0002-5394-7850
2015 (English)In: Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, ISSN 1618-2642, E-ISSN 1618-2650, Vol. 407, no 5, 1433-1449 p.Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Suitable analytical markers to assess the degree of degradation of historic silk textiles at molecular and macroscopic levels have been identified and compared with silk textiles aged artificially in different environments, namely (i) ultraviolet (UV) exposure, (ii) thermo-oxidation, (iii) controlled humidity and (iv) pH. The changes at the molecular level in the amino acid composition, the formation of oxidative moieties, crystallinity and molecular weight correlate well with the changes in the macroscopic properties such as brightness, pH and mechanical properties. These analytical markers are useful to understand the degradation mechanisms that silk textiles undergo under different degradation environments, involving oxidation processes, hydrolysis, chain scission and physical arrangements. Thermo-oxidation at high temperatures proves to be the accelerated ageing procedure producing silk samples that most resembled the degree of degradation of early seventeenth-century silk. These analytical markers will be valuable to support the textile conservation tasks currently being performed in museums to preserve our heritage.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Springer Berlin/Heidelberg, 2015. Vol. 407, no 5, 1433-1449 p.
Keyword [en]
Silk, Conservation, Multivariate analysis, Amino acid composition, Infrared spectroscopy, Mechanical properties
National Category
Other Chemical Engineering Textile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:his:diva-13588DOI: 10.1007/s00216-014-8361-zISI: 000349336400015PubMedID: 25492090Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-84937901397OAI: oai:DiVA.org:his-13588DiVA: diva2:1098130
Available from: 2017-05-23 Created: 2017-05-23 Last updated: 2017-11-29Bibliographically approved

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Vilaplana, FranciscoKarlsson, Sigbritt

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Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry
Other Chemical EngineeringTextile, Rubber and Polymeric Materials

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